Little Gan’s Willetton review: April Ooi visits Italian-inspired restaurant from owners of Foo Wah Chinese

I remember going to Foo Wah as a kid — it was in my family’s tight rotation of Chinese restaurants, saved for anytime there was a birthday. And while I’ve known for while Foo Wah had closed, I also knew the owner’s youngest son, Richard Gan, had taken over and turned the restaurant into an Italian-inspired eatery called Little Gan’s. What I didn’t know before visiting was that Little Gan’s would become one of my favourite restaurants I’ve tried in a long time. My boyfriend and I went for his birthday. The 24-seat venue is cosy and small, but the subtle downlights and artwork hanging on the wall are tasteful and it feels fancy compared with other eateries in Willetton. It’s a complete overhaul from the typical 2000s-era Chinese restaurant aesthetic that used to be there. The lamb ribs ($21), arrived tender, covered in a sticky sweet soy glaze and sesame seeds. It was good, but what blew us away was the pork Scotch ($36), which came thick-cut and blushing, its caramelised crust giving way to melty meat layered with savoury depth. It sat on a coconut and pumpkin puree and was served with kimchi on top. What I like about Little Gan’s is it isn’t fusion for the sake of novelty. It feels like Gan actually tastes a dish and thinks about how it can be elevated. It just so happens to be in unique and magical ways. My favourite dish was the miso eggplant ($14), which was an absolute steal. Half of a chunky massive eggplant, scored in a way to let in the delicious umami flavours of the shiny miso glaze. It was topped with little dabbles of creme fraiche and pickled onions (which sounds rogue until you try it). We also had to try one of the pastas, since they’re made fresh in-house. We landed on the conchiglie ($32), which was a ribbed, curved conch shape. The texture of the pasta was immaculate, but following the other flavour-heavy dishes, this one felt pretty tame. I’d be keen to try the other pasta options in future. Little Gan’s has a list of different wines by the bottle or glass, and a handful of cocktail options. The rhubi spritz ($16) was well priced, and tasted like a grapefruit bubble tea, but bubbly. We ended on a delicious shared Basque cheesecake ($14), which came with a birthday candle (a thoughtful touch). At $150 for the two of us, Little Gan’s is definitely in the special occasion category. However, it certainly feels like you’re getting value — prices are fair, portions are big, and taste punches at a fine dining level. My only regret is not trying it out earlier. Little Gan’s Unit 3/101 Collins Road, Willetton OPEN Wednesday-Saturday: 5pm-10pm CONTACT 0493 430 606, littlegans.com.au BOOKINGS Yes THE VERDICT My new favourite cosy suburban restaurant. The menu is executed impeccably, and prices feel reasonable for a special occasion. 19/20