India, Uniworld & the Golden Triangle 

This is India’s holy river, the Ganges. This is the goddess Ganga Ma, a deity descended from Heaven; a brown ribbon of spiritual cleansing.

And the goddess is all around me.

I am on the river cruise ship Ganges Voyager II, on which Uniworld Boutique River Cruises offers a seven-day voyage, sailing out of Kolkata, in Bengal, east India.

Uniworld offers this as part of two packages — one coupling it with the Maharaja’s Express train, and one with a journey round the Golden Triangle, staying in Oberoi hotels.

But we’ll get to that . . .

THE RIVER GANGES

For now, all I can think about is this little stretch of the 2525km long Ganges. The ship has left Kolkata and is on the way to the village of Kalna — a place that I doubt travellers would get to by land.

We are ferried ashore on the ship’s solid timber tender, and what unfolds amazes.

Ganges Voyager II carries a maximum of 56 guests, looked after by 36 staff, and generally runs full.

For excursions, passengers are divided into three groups, each with an experienced and talented guide — so the groups walking around on shore are small and the guiding personalised and intimate. Guests have a small and unobvious audio box and ear-piece. The guide gently narrates in my ear.

And I’m glad to be with Bikash (Vikas) Mehra in Kalna, which has temples dating to 1755 — most unusually, built of brick and clay, as is the style in Bengal. The temple for the Hindu god Krishna is covered in intricate details. But then we stroll into an extraordinary circle of 108 temples for the god Shiva.

It’s been an early excursion, and I’m glad to return to the ship for a late breakfast. It could be an Indian-style breakfast or Western, but I opt for a simple omelette.

“How would you like it? Medium or soft? Would you like it folded?” At every moment, the staff of Ganges Voyager II are attentive. Every waiter walks through the restaurant looking for a plate to pick up.

My room is kept immaculately. I’m in a suite which has a four-posted bed, two armchairs and a desk and a very big bathroom with a shower that’s 2m deep.

Raj Singh, who owns the ship and charters it full-time to Uniworld, pioneered river cruising in India. Many of the crew and staff, like cruise and tour manager Vishal Bhaskar, have been with him from the beginning. I speak with one who has worked for Raj for 48 years. “He has taught me everything,” he says with gratitude.

Local youngsters are taken on, trained and retained, Raj tells me, and I see the importance of this to him. “They are all young and they want to do it,” he says. “That’s what counts. We do find people locally rather than get people from outside. We train them every year.”

They are full-time employees, and not on contract.

The ship was designed specifically for the Ganges, after Raj did an extensive research voyage in a local boat. The Voyager was built in Kolkata. “This is 100 per cent locals, and 100 per cent Indian,” Raj says.

Certainly, it feels like a very Indian experience — and, once again, as we stroll along the Strand in Chandannagar, we are the only tourists in sight. After a 1673 agreement with the local ruler, and permanent French settlement in 1688, this town was ruled by the French then British, then French, then British, then French, until 1950 — three years after India got its independence, from British rule.

There’s French colonial architecture here, just as there is British architecture in Kolkata, including the epic Queen Victoria Memorial, which is built from the same marble as the Taj Mahal.

But Chandannagar has also been one of the hotbeds of Bengali politics and resistance. Indians will tell you that Delhi is the political capital of India, Mumbai is the business capital, and Kolkata is the capital of culture.

But Kolkata in particular, and West Bengal in general, has always pushed forwards with politics. Motifs for the Communist Party of India are sprayed on walls, and it is one of few States not run by the BJP party of Narendra Modi, which holds national power. It has a plain speaking female Chief Minister in Mamata Banerjee.

Hinduism with its 330 million deities, Islam and the Partition of 1947, when Muslims from this area were told to leave for what is now Bangladesh and where to buy the best gifts — Bikash Mehra will discuss and explain anything and everything, gently and with great accuracy.

And after these great dips into rural India, we retreat to the ship to move on (happily unpacking just once).

Ganges Voyager II is a real sanctuary. There is one restaurant, where everyone eats what really tastes like home-cooked food, always with Indian and Western options. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are nice moments when all guests come together, mix and exchange experiences.

This happens in the lounge and bar on the top deck, too, and out on the sundeck.

The lounge has comfortable armchairs — enough for everyone, though there are times when there might be just a few other people there, each enjoying some private space and quiet time to read or muse through the pictures in their phone.

Complimentary house wine, local spirits and beer, soft drinks, tea and coffee are served throughout the cruise.

There’s a gym and a spa, with a range of treatments. The ship also offers yoga and meditation sessions and coaching, and there’s a class in cooking Indian cuisine, and a henna artist who comes on board to adorn guests’ hands and arms.

But the two evening performances, one of Baul musicians and one by a company showing various styles of Indian dance, are real highlights for me. Baul people sing and accompany spiritual songs which can be traced back to the 15th Century, and the Kalachand Haldar baul music group are expert exponents. I am mesmerised and head to bed with my head swirling the sweet sounds of India.

Ah, the bed.

The ship, launched in 2016, has the comforts of a quality hotel — quality linens and a pillow choice, spacious bathrooms, robes and slippers. My suite has a lot of storage space, including that nice under-bed spot for luggage.

There are other touches — the ready supply of bottled water in the room and on excursions, fresh fruit and flowers upon arrival and universal electrical plugs.

And the ship is air-conditioned throughout, with individual controls in rooms.

The 56m-long ship has 13 Colonial Suites and 10 Signature Suites, both of 24.3sqm. If you pace out six big strides by four strides, I think you will agree that’s a more-than decent “entry level cabin”. There are also two 26sqm Heritage Suites, two 33.5sqm Viceroy Suites and a 37.2sqm Maharaja’s Suite.

There are French balconies and with floor-to-ceiling glass doors.

For out there, all around us is the holy Ganges. Never forget that. (I never forget that.)

Raj Singh says: “What distinguishes this river from other rivers in the world is that it is natural. It is undammed, free-flowing. That’s very different.”

He adds that the river cruising experience here is also different because there aren’t other ships.

“Wherever you go river cruising you will see ships and ships and ships,” he says. “But not here. When you visit a village you will be the only ones there.”

And, of course, he’s right.

THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE

To complete the full India experience, Uniworld includes either a rail trip or coach touring around the Golden Triangle to the days on the Ganges.

There are two nights in New Delhi at The Oberoi New Delhi, one in Agra at The Oberoi Amarvilas and two in Jaipur at The Oberoi Rajvilas.

Each hotel is splendid.

Each place is full of wonders.

Having flown from Perth to Delhi with Singapore Airlines, we start gently with a stroll along the wide walkway at Humayun’s Tomb — a grand mausoleum clad in red sandstone with white and black inlaid marble borders. This dramatic example of Moghul architecture, built by Empress Bega Begum for the deceased Emperor Humayun, was completed in 1572.

We visit Raj Ghat, where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated after his assassination by another Hindu in 1948, and bounce through the laneways of Old Delhi in cycle rickshaws.

The Oberoi hotel group is a fine fit for the Uniworld package, as this is very much an India company, and proud of it. That comes through, again, in loyal and long-term staff, who are well trained and have pride in their work, and being part of Oberoi.

A comfortable air-conditioned coach takes us on to Agra, where we see the Taj Mahal both at sunset and sunrise. Not only that, but I can see it from the window of my room at The Oberoi Amarvilas — just as you can from every room. This beautiful hotel, with pools bringing freshness to its entrance, and a grand lobby with a huge chandelier, is built for guests to fully experience the Taj Mahal. The pool area is that side of the building. And, to top it all, it is literally a stone’s throw from the great, white marble monument built by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his wife, Mumtaz Begum. It took 22 years to build and was completed in 1653.

Another coach trip takes us on to Jaipur, the pink city. And the city does, indeed shimmer pink in the warm evenings. We visit City Palace, still run by a royal family and Jantar Mantar Observatory, built between 1728 and 1734, where 17 big astronomical instruments accurately plot the skies. A highlight for me is always the Amber Fort with its beautiful Ganesh Gate and Hall of Mirrors.

But another highlight for me is the Oberoi Rajvilas. I do actually love this hotel — as it is built around an ancient temple. As the stone plaque outside rightly says: “This ancient 280-year-old Lord Shiva Temple adds a very positive oorja (energy) and spiritual serenity to the entire resort.”

Prayer is conducted by a local priest twice every day: “We welcome you to participate in this age-old tradition and seek divine blessings.”

More than 150 peacocks stroll the grounds and more than 1000 species of migratory and resident birds have been identified in these beautiful and extensive gardens.

To me, Oberoi Rajvilas is more than a hotel. It is a sort of rare-air village, with rooms set at ground level among the gardens. My sunken white marble bath looks out at a private garden courtyard. The four-poster bed is set in the large main room, which has a window seat and a writing desk in one corner. There’s a separate walk-in dressing room. Pathways to the rooms have gardens, waterways and fountains.

Oberoi Rajvilas has a past, but also has an abundant, sharing life, here in the present.

I feel the spirituality of the place. I feel deep joy (two words that roll around my head as I stroll in the gardens, visit the temple and feel a tranquil sense of “coming home”).

And I am completely unsurprised when my butler introduces himself.

“My name is Deepjoy.”

+ Stephen Scourfield was a guest of Uniworld. They have not influenced, or read this story before publication.

fact file

+ Ganges Voyager II sails from September to March and is in high demand, so travellers need to plan and book ahead. Most do this through a travel agent, can book direct with Uniworld by calling 1300 370 792. Also see uniworld.com/au

+ Uniworld has two packages which include a seven-night cruise on Ganges Voyager II.

India’s Golden Triangle and the Sacred Ganges is a 13-day package from New Delhi to Kolkata. It starts with Delhi, Agra and the Taj Mahal and Jaipur and the Pink Palace, staying in Oberoi hotels. Then travellers join the ship.

In 2026, it is from about $12,239 per person in a Signature Suite, depending on date and cabin type. That includes excursions and 12 breakfasts, 10 lunches and nine dinners. Meals onboard prepared are excellent, using fresh ingredients. There is already limited availability.

Bicton Travel is a key travel agent handling bookings for the packages. 9339 0277

+ The other, 16-day package combines cruise and rail and is The Sacred Ganges and the Maharajas’ Express — a luxury train from Delhi to Agra, Ranthambore, Jaipur, Bikaner, Jodhpur, Udaipur and Mumbai. Guests cruise the Ganges first on Ganges Voyager III, and fly from Kolkata to Delhi on day eight, to join the train.

In 2026, it is from about $34,4843 per person, and there is already limited availability.

+ Both packages include welcome and farewell gala dinners.