Bali’s botanical garden

“There are 800 incarnations of Bali. You just have to find the ones you like.” These words, uttered by an old Aussie expat who has lived in Bali since the 1970s, have proved prophetic. I moved here more than five years ago, yet I’m constantly discovering new and exciting attractions that undo whatever preconceptions I still have about Bali. Earlier this month, I stumbled on yet another incarnation that not only hides in plain sight but is also massive in size and scale. Set on the foothills of Mt Bratan in the back streets of Bedugul, a mountain lake resort town in the northern highlands of Bali, the Bali Botanical Garden is the largest botanical garden in all of Indonesia, with 400 acres of manicured tropical and subtropical gardens interspersed with lush green lawns, glasshouses, picnic spots and viewpoints. Established in 1959 as a centre for botanical research, conservation, education and recreation, the Bali Botanical Garden is home to an estimated 21,000 specimens of flora belonging to 2400 different species. There are half a dozen or so must-see attractions within the park: the cactus glasshouse, which contains 104 cactus species — most from Africa but also a few from Indonesia — plus a few very hungry carnivorous plants; the orchard garden, which has 320 orchid types that vary in colour from rust red to chromatic green; the begonia glasshouse, dedicated to a species of low-lying tropical plants with asymmetrical leaves used in Bali for flower beds and in China for medicinal purposes; the bamboo garden (87 species) and fern garden (188 species); three places of worship, including a hybrid Hindu-Buddhist-Tao temple; a giant fig tree thought to be more than 100 years old with eight trunks at ground level that twist into one giant tree; and, near the top of the park, the Lake Beratan viewpoint. Because of the sheer size of the Bali Botanical Garden and the fact it’s set on a hill, the best way to take it all in is by joining a group tour or renting an electric scooter. If you just can’t get enough of the park and want the chance to see a sunrise over the lake, you can book a very comfortable room at the guesthouse near the viewpoint. There are four rooms, each with an ensuite bathroom and a basic restaurant near the carpark for meals. Given the long drive from the south where most tourists stay in Bali, its best to combine a trip to the Bali Botanical Garden with a visit to other attractions in Bedugul, like Ulun Danu Beratan Temple, strawberry picking, glamping on the edge of one of the three lakes in the area, or a weekend trip to Munduk, a resort town with a killer lake and misty mountains set on the ridge about half an hour’s drive north of the botanical garden. And word to the wise: the Bali Botanical Garden is a popular weekend destination for residents, so the best time to visit is during the week. fact file + Bali Botanical Gardens is in Bedugul, a 2½-hour drive from the international airport. + It is open from 8am-5pm on weekdays and until 4pm on weekends. + Entry is $1.50 on weekdays, and $2.50 on weekends. + Bicycle hire is $2, or hire an electric scooter for $10. + Group tours in electric vehicles are $6 for one hour, or $12 to join the 2½-hour tour. + Accommodation in the guesthouse is $50 per room per night. For bookings, visit kebunraya.id