It’s been hard to tear myself away from my base at the InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort. The five-star luxury resort on Central Vietnam’s Son Tra Peninsula might only be a 20-minute drive from Da Nang city centre, but set in 39ha of the peninsula’s 4370ha nature reserve, surrounded by pristine rainforest, it feels like I’m a million miles away.

To protect the endangered red-shanked douc langurs that live on the reserve, a moratorium on new construction means this resort is the only development on the peninsula.

The traditional-style buildings have been sympathetically nestled into the mountainside. And while there is an accommodation mix of 189 rooms, suites and private villas, they are well spaced out, so at times it feels like I have the place to myself.

Being surrounded by trees and the soothing sounds of nature, I’ve very quickly settled into the tranquillity of it all.

As tempting as it is to soak up as much of this peace as possible, this afternoon a group of us are taking advantage of the free shuttle bus into Hoi An, which is an hour away.

We are dropped off outside Yaly, one of Hoi An’s many tailors. The city is known as Vietnam’s tailoring capital — there are numerous shops offering speedy custom clothes-making services here.

Hoi An’s origins as a trading port date back to the ancient Champa Kingdom in the 2nd century, and between the 15th and 19th centuries it was one of the most prosperous international trading ports in South-East Asia. As a vital part of the Maritime Silk Road, merchants from Europe, Japan, China and other parts of South-East Asia traded goods such as silk, sugar cane, spices, ceramics and wood in the port.

The city’s Old Town (also known as Hoi An Ancient Town) is UNESCO-protected and features well-preserved properties whose Japanese, Chinese and French-influenced architecture is reflective of the blend of cultures that were brought together in this trading hub.

And it’s a bustling place today. After the last few days of serenity on the peninsula, it’s quite a shock to the system navigating streets filled with tourists and roads packed with cars and scooters.

There is a knack to crossing the road in Vietnam. The rule of thumb is that traffic moves in a constant stream, so hold your nerve, step out confidently, and move at a steady pace. Believe it or not, the vehicles will accommodate you, but it takes some getting used to.

I am relieved to enter the Old Town proper, which is pedestrian-only, give or take the odd bike. Traditional wooden houses adorned with ornate carvings stand alongside Chinese temples and French colonial villas.

We make our way along Tran Phu Street, a particularly picturesque part of town. Distinctive yellow shophouses are clad with boughs of pink and purple bougainvillea and strung with rows of colourful silk lanterns.

These lanterns have been crafted in Hoi An for more than 400 years and there are still shops selling them here, as well as some which offer lantern-making workshops. You will also find more tailors, as well as stores selling an impressive array of leather goods, custom-made footwear, art and souvenirs. Be prepared to barter unless you see signs telling you the price is set.

You will need a Hoi An Old Town ticket to gain entry to the town’s historic attractions. These can be bought from the official ticket booths around the perimeter of the heritage district. Each ticket (priced 120,000 VND/$6.50) gives access to five attractions. The money raised goes towards preserving the heritage buildings. You can buy multiple tickets if you decide you’d like to see more than five.

As a starting point, I’d suggest:

The Japanese Bridge is the only covered bridge in the world to house a Buddhist temple. Traversing a small tributary of the Thu Bon River, the 18m-long bridge was built by Japanese traders in the 1590s. It was meant to calm a mythical earthquake-causing monster. As extra protection, a statue of a dog and a monkey sit at either end of the bridge. In accordance with Vietnamese beliefs, these animals symbolise loyalty, guardianship and spiritual protection. Hidden inside the bridge is a small temple dedicated to Tran Vo Bac De, the Vietnamese god of weather.

Phung Hung Ancient House is one of the best-preserved houses in Hoi An. Built around 1780 by a Vietnamese merchant, this two-storey ironwood-timber property combines Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese architecture. It features a striking yin-yang roof, while the front balcony sports a shell-shaped wooden ceiling and the timber exterior features intricate carving. Being close to the river, the property was prone to flooding. Trapdoors in the upper floor allowed swift movement of furniture and goods from the lower floor to avoid flood damage. The ground floor was used for trading, while the family lived on the upper floor.

Cantonese Assembly Hall is one of five assembly halls in Hoi An. Built in the late 1800s by Cantonese merchants, it was used as a communal meeting space and place of worship for Chinese immigrants. It is adorned with ornate wood and stone carvings, brightly painted detailing, and a courtyard with a striking dragon sculpture inspired by the Chinese legend of a carp transforming into a dragon.

Quan Cong Temple was built in 1653, making it one of Hoi An’s oldest buildings. This place of worship honours the legendary Chinese general Quan Cong, who was famed for his loyalty, bravery, righteousness and martial arts skills. Behind the colourful front doors which feature hand-painted dragons you will find a statue of Quan Cong, as well as one of his trusty steed Red Hare. The temple’s colour palette of red, gold and jade green is typical of Chinese religious architecture from the 17th and 18th centuries.

Tan Ky Old House traded in agricultural products in the 18th and 19th centuries. The property, which is a fusion of Japanese, Chinese and Vietnamese architectural styles, contains many original pieces of furniture and artefacts. One of the most interesting is the Confucius Cup, which is between 550 and 600 years old. Symbolising the philosophy of moderation and a calm mind, the cup can hold liquid up to 80 per cent of its capacity but when it’s filled beyond that the entire contents drain through a hole in the bottom. The two-storey house was built according to feng shui principals. From the use of carved symbols to the arrangement of space, every detail is aimed at creating harmony between the inhabitants and nature, while promoting prosperity, luck and sustainability. It seems to be working — the house has been in the Le family for eight generations.

You can see one of the most picturesque attractions for free. The Ba Mu Temple Gate is all that remains of two 17th-century temples, the Ong Chu temple and the Ba Mu temple. Adorned with intricate carvings and decorated in muted tones of red, orange and yellow, it makes quite the picture as it’s reflected in the large pool that’s dotted with lily pads in front of it.

The gate is set back off the main tourist drag and, while it’s still a popular spot, it’s a peaceful place for a quick break. But after wandering around in the crowds and the humidity, we need more than a foot break — it’s time for an iced coffee.

There are plenty of cafes in the main streets, but Fleur spots an alleyway that she’s keen to check out. At the end of the alley, we find the courtyard of Hoi An Coffee Hub.

Owner Mr Nguyen Khoa Vu brings us menus and we compliment him on this cute courtyard space which is filled with greenery, driftwood, artwork and rustic furniture. He tells us this is his family home — the coffee shop occupies the ground floor and he and his family live on the floor above.

“You are sitting where my children’s swimming pool used to be. I converted it into this courtyard during COVID,” he says.

Before the COVID-19 pandemic he worked at “many things” but he made this career change and seems to be enjoying every minute of it. He cheerfully brings us out complimentary glasses of chilled jasmine tea to cool us down while we contemplate our order.

Fleur tells us she’s going to try the Combo — a herbal footbath and a warm or iced drink for VND120,000 ($6.50). I’m thinking “what on earth?” but Gill decides she’s going to have one too. Then Khoa says he’s up for it. And finally, Jerome decides he’s in too. I still don’t really fancy it but figure I’m going to be a party pooper if I don’t. Footbaths and iced coffees all round, please!

A few minutes later Mrs Nguyen puts a steaming bowl of water filled with star anise, lemongrass, cinnamon, lime and green tea on the table.

We look at it, and each other, confused. Have we all to share the one bowl? Mr Nguyen appears, telling us this is the herbal mix that will be in our footbaths — this bowlful is just so we can smell the fragrance. Phew!

And then Mrs Nguyen heaves out five large wooden tubs and places them at our feet. We take the plunge together, and there’s a collective groan of pleasure around the table.

The result is instant; the water is icy and I’ve gone from sweaty mess to cool as a cucumber. This is delightful — as is the iced salt coffee, a Vietnamese specialty, which is my new favourite drink.

We finish our coffees, reluctantly take out our feet from the refreshing baths, and make our way down to the river for a stroll. We feel much cooler for the next hour or so. The cold footbath is a genius way to beat the heat.

As the sun sets, the river fills with rowing boats and is illuminated by hundreds of colourful lanterns. A lantern-boat ride lasts about 20 minutes and it’s tempting, but we are ready for dinner. We are content to take in the picturesque scene from the An Hoi Bridge as we make our way over to Morning Glory restaurant on the other side of the river.

We dine from the Ancient Town Treats section of the menu, which features local dishes that have been shaped by the city’s rich cosmopolitan past. The dishes have pan-Asian origins adapted to local tastes — most evident in the dish of Cao Lau which features Japanese udon noodles, Chinese-style char sui, French-style croutons, and fragrant Vietnamese herbs — the perfect meeting of East and West.

After dinner we consider a boat ride, but there are big queues and we decide we’ve had enough of the crowds. It’s time to head back to make the most of the remaining time in our peaceful sanctuary on the peninsula.

danang.intercontinental.com

Leyanne Baillie was a guest of InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort. They have not influenced this story, or read it before publication.