There is a fizz in me every time I take my first step on to African soil.

For there is a pulse in the continent quite unlike anywhere else I know.

This alone is a reason to visit. A reason to return.

And if we trace humanity’s story back to its beginning, we all have roots on this continent. We are all the children of Africa. This is where our earliest ancestors first stood up and walked upright, before beginning the journey that would populate the rest of the world.

And I’d point to our own geography, here on the western edge of the Australian continent, with just the Indian Ocean between us and Africa — now near-neighbours, but once joined. That not only gives us connection, but with direct flights between Perth and Johannesburg, and one-stop flights to north Africa, it gives us reasons to visit not just once, but to recognise Africa’s diversity and complexity as a continent, and visit many times.

After all, the African Union comprises 55 member nations, compared with the European Union’s 27. Each country has followed its own path, and its history has shaped its contemporary culture.

I have travelled in Africa many times. I will again.

COUNTRIES TO CONSIDER

My thoughts in this Africa Guide are specific — picking out the places that I feel most happy and confident in recommending, particularly for first-time travellers to the continent.

In north Africa, my thoughts are for Morocco and Egypt.

In the east and south, for Botswana, Zambia, Namibia, Tanzania, Kenya’s Maasai Mara, Rwanda, Uganda and the Victoria Falls region of Zimbabwe and Zambia. In South Africa, I focus on Kruger National Park, the Blue Train and Cape Town.

Botswana is synonymous with elephants. Vast herds roam a country where some 45 per cent of the land is protected for conservation. There is a strong commitment to safeguarding wildlife from poaching. Chobe National Park has not only elephants but lions, leopards and cheetahs, and the 15,000sqkm of the Okavango Delta, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has one of Africa’s richest ecosystems. From March onwards, I think conditions are excellent. September to November are increasingly hot, but I like that too. While temperatures can reach 40C, the drying land draws wildlife to waterholes, making animal viewing easy and intense.

In Zambia, South Luangwa National Park stands out. The oxbow lagoons of the Luangwa River attract wildlife, and Zambia has encouraged local employment within tourism, so visitors get genuine contact with Zambian guides and staff.

Namibia combines scenery with living Indigenous cultures. The Namib Desert provides some of Africa’s most dramatic landscapes, while San Bushmen and Himba communities welcome visitors to cultural experiences. The Living Culture Foundation Namibia offers an excellent introduction through its network of living museums.

Zimbabwe’s great attraction is Victoria Falls, where the Zambezi River plunges more than 100m, creating spray visible for up to 50km. The local name, Mosi-oa-Tunya (“The Smoke That Thunders”) captures its power perfectly. After the rains ease between late March and May, the countryside remains lush, and (in my book) there must be canoeing on the Zambezi River with hippos.

Kenya’s capital, Nairobi, is the gateway to the Maasai Mara — and, frankly, it’s one I tend to pass through quickly. There are many good safari camps in the Mara, where the annual wildebeest and zebra migration reaches its peak around September (they migrate across Tanzania’s Serengeti, following feed). The wildlife encounters in the Maasai Mara can be extraordinary, from quiet elephant herds and hunting lions to leopards carrying prey high into trees. Take your binoculars or long camera lens for the birdlife — it’s brilliant.

Tanzania has Serengeti National Park, Mt Kilimanjaro and the Ngorongoro Crater. And the last, for me, is a jewel. Ngorongoro is a huge volcanic caldera, with an estimated 25,000 animals living within its walls. That makes exceptional opportunities for wildlife photography.

South Africa has plenty of highlights for the visitor. Cape Town, beneath Table Mountain, overlooks Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela and other political prisoners were held during the apartheid era. Nearby wine regions centred on Stellenbosch and Franschhoek have Cape Dutch architecture, while the Garden Route links coastal highlights including Hermanus, Knysna, Plettenberg Bay, Nature’s Valley, Mossel Bay and George. Summers from November to March are warm and dry, although many locals favour the quieter months of March to May. Kruger National Park remains one of Africa’s premier safari destinations — and for good reason. It is home to more than 1000 lions and leopards, and at least 13,500 elephants. There are lots of giraffes, rhinos, buffalos and hippos, too. Wildlife viewing is at its best between May and September.

Rwanda has mountain gorillas to visit in Volcanoes National Park. Strict visitor limits allow only 80 people each day to spend an hour with one of 10 gorilla families. The $US1500 ($2175) permit contributes to conservation and local communities. In the capital, Kigali, the Genocide Museum provides a respectful account of the 1994 genocide while highlighting the country’s remarkable recovery. This is certainly one of the safest countries in Africa for visitors.

Neighbouring Uganda protects more than 300 mountain gorillas in the UNESCO-listed Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. That is nearly half the world’s remaining population. A standard Uganda mountain gorilla trekking permit costs $US800 ($1160) for foreign visitors. A tip — low-season discounts are available during April, May and November (look for $US200 off).

Chimpanzee trekking in Kibale Forest has also become increasingly popular.

Although conflict has affected Ethiopia since late 2020, particularly in Tigray, Amhara and Afar, the country remains historically significant.

(some of)

MY BEST MOMENTS

IN AFRICA

After so many visits to so many parts of Africa, how do you choose just a handful of standout experiences? Just go with your gut, and start typing…

Victoria Falls

One of the questions I’m asked most often is whether visitors should stay on the Zambian or Zimbabwean side of Victoria Falls. My answer is always the same — both.

The falls themselves deserve at least two nights, and ideally three. On the Zambian side, the Royal Livingstone Hotel has one of the best positions on the river — it’s where I stay, if I can. If your budget allows, it’s difficult to beat. Zebras and giraffes wander the gardens, the Zambezi flows past the property’s lawn, and a private entrance gives direct access to the falls.

I like nearby Livingstone very much. It is an easy town to explore, with good footpaths, ATMs and restaurants serving everything from Indian to Italian cuisine. Please visit the Livingstone Museum, where Dr David Livingstone’s original medical chest is displayed. Although he is remembered for his African expeditions, I admire him equally for his determined opposition to slavery.

The ideal months for viewing Victoria Falls are generally June to September.

It’s well worth paying the $US50 ($72) visa fee to cross into Zimbabwe. There, the town of Victoria Falls has always struck me as friendly, relaxed ,and easy to navigate, with plenty of quality accommodation and a welcoming atmosphere. And when I stay there, I head to The Elephant Camp.

Okavango Delta

There is a difference between a lodge and a bush camp. Lodges are permanent structures, while bush camps (even the most luxurious) are usually safari tents with proper bathrooms, and separate tented lounges and dining areas.

Whenever possible, I choose a bush camp because I feel more immersed in the landscape.

Now we have established that distinction, it is also worth knowing the difference between national parks and private concessions. Whenever I see the words “concession land”, my interest increases. Inside national parks, guides must remain on designated tracks. If a lion is resting 100m away in long grass, that’s as close as you’ll get, and before long several other vehicles are likely to arrive. On a private concession, however, guides can leave the tracks and carefully drive through the bush, often getting close to wildlife, for more intimate encounters. The Okavango Delta offers some outstanding concession camps. Machaba Camp, in the 35,000ha Khwai Concession, is a good example (my favourite).

Egypt, the Nile and the Pyramids

We have to think of the north, too, of course. While Morocco offers colour, warmth and wonderful riads, Egypt continues to occupy a special place in my mind.

I’ve had times of caution and hesitation in recommending it because Australia’s Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade still advises travellers to reconsider the need to visit some parts of the country. Even so, I am confident about what I call “the corridor” south, along the established tourist and river-cruise route linking Cairo, the Nile, Luxor, Aswan and the Valley of the Kings.

What lives in me most strongly? It isn’t the Sphinx, the Pyramids or Cairo’s markets. It’s the River Nile itself. Around 95 per cent of Egypt’s population lives within a short distance of this great artery. The nation’s lifeblood. To me, it is the country’s central character — not simply a river, but a constant presence that has shaped Egypt’s history, culture, and daily life for thousands of years.

TOURS TO JOIN

Many thinking about Africa will turn to tours.

And, at this moment, I think Africa tours represent the best value I am seeing anywhere in the travel world.

I’ve looked around and (completely independently and without bias, of course) picked some highlights.

Let’s start in the north and work down the continent.

+ For Egypt, particularly for first-timers, it’s hard to go past Viking Cruises’ Pharaohs and Pyramids itinerary, which is from $10,195 per person, twin share, for the tour and cruise (not including international flights).

The 12-day trip from Cairo to Qena, Luxor to Esna, Aswan to Kom Ombo and Edfu, then back to Cairo, includes 11 guided tours.

It visits pyramids, the Temple of Karnak’s 136 soaring pillars, the Valley of the Kings, and sails on a modern Nile ship, owned and operated by Viking. (vikingrivercruises.com.au and 138 747)

+ And for a huge trip (and huge value), I like Flight Centre’s 23-day Egypt to Morocco Adventure. This includes a cruise on the Nile, visits to historic sites, temples and medinas, and a crossing of the Sahara Desert to the mountains of Morocco.

At the moment, it is from $8799 per person, twin share, for the tour (not flights). It is valued at $11,199. (Flight Centre stores, flightcentre.com.au or 1300 424 053)

+ Inspiring Vacations has a 15-day small-group tour just in Morocco from $4694 per person (it is usually $5912). The group size is limited to six to 18 people, and there are 13 nights in four-star boutique riads, one at a desert camp in the Sahara, and breakfast daily. Three lunches and six dinners are also included, with coach transportation.

Casablanca, Fes and the blue city of Chefchaouen. A safari camp and Marrakech. This itinerary just about has it all, including lunch with a local family on their farm and a visit to Ait Benhaddou, in the High Atlas Mountains. (inspiringvacations.com.au and 1300 438 352)

+ In East Africa, I’ll just touch on Intrepid Travel’s East Africa Highlights — a 10-day trip with a group size of one to 16, and from $5432 at the moment (was $6390). From Nairobi, Kenya, to the Maasai Mara National Reserve, Serengeti National Park to the Ngorongoro Crater, travellers are sure to see plenty of wildlife on the many game drives. (intrepidtravel.com and 1300 797 010)

+ And now we’ll move on to southern Africa, starting with Luxury Escapes’ 12-day South Africa Iconic Blue Train Journey. It includes a three-night Hwange safari stay. The tour visits Cape Town and the Cape winelands, Kimberley, Johannesburg, Kruger National Park, Victoria Falls and Hwange National Park. The South Africa Blue Train is a luxury rail service — kind of like a moving (arguably) five-star hotel.

This particular tour has to be booked by July 15, 2026, to get a price from $13,999 per person, twin share (valued up to $19,550). (luxuryescapes.com/au and 1300 670 243)

+ Imagine Holidays also offers curated, all-inclusive Africa packages which combine wildlife safaris with luxury rail journeys (like the Blue Train or Rovos Rail), river cruises and city stays.

I like its Ultimate Africa Adventure and Safari, a 15-night trip which includes the Blue Train, escorted tours of Cape Town, a Victoria Falls tour, and safari game drives in Pilanesberg National Park, or Kruger National Park. Itineraries start from $9999 per person. (imaginecruising.com.au and 1800 958 405)

And so, we have come to the subject of Victoria Falls, which is such a hub for tours in southern Africa (and rightly so).

+ I like Flight Centre’s 17-day Discover South Africa and Victoria Falls Tour, which, at current prices from $8099 per person (valued at $10,449 per person), includes international flights to Cape Town, the return from Victoria Falls, and the flights from Cape Town to Kruger and Johannesburg to Victoria Falls. That’s incredible value.

The tour itself is from Cape Town to Victoria Falls, including the Garden Route, and wildlife in Kruger National Park and Chobe River National Park. (Flight Centre stores, flightcentre.com.au and 1300 424 053)

+ Trip a Deal also has a strong package, the 11-day Five Star African Safari, which includes Sebatana Private Reserve, Johannesburg and more. It includes time at a luxurious five-star safari lodge in a private game reserve looking for lions, elephants, zebras and more, and is currently from $4499 per person, twin share (rather than the usual $6663).

And that includes return international, full-service flights, seven nights at Sebatana Private Game Reserve, two at a four-star hotel in Johannesburg, and 24 meals including a wilderness champagne brunch. I think this is a family-friendly proposition, particularly given the price. (tripadeal.com.au and 1300 834 127)

+ Inspiring Vacations has a partially escorted 16-day Essential South Africa with Victoria Falls and Hwange Safari. Group size is between four and 20. There are 12 nights in three and four-star hotels, and three in a furnished permanent safari tent with air-conditioning and an ensuite bathroom. There are drives in Kruger National Park and Hwange National Park, a tour of the Zimbabwean side of Victoria Falls, internal flights in Africa (but not international flights to get there) and coach transport. It is from $10,695 per person, twin share. (inspiringvacations.com.au and 1300 438 352)

This isn’t an exhaustive list, of course — just my dip into all that is offered. But I like all of these for various reasons — from the sheer value they offer, to small groups sizes, to the potential to travel with the family.

SOCIETY & POLITICS

The tribal complexities and porous borders of the African content create rubs.

And I can’t write about Africa without thinking about, and including, something on this.

Let me say first that, thinking about your security anywhere, I measure first whether it’s “about us”. Sometimes it is — about “Europeans”, Westerners, people considered to be of a certain religion or wealth, or tourists.

But usually it is not. Most often, issues are internal, local, and personal to that area. They are not “about us”. That means we, as visitors, are not particularly targeted, though we could get caught up in (and have our plans disarranged by) the fallout.

Take this one example. One of the biggest days of the year internationally for me has been June 30 — the unofficial deadline set by anti-immigration groups in South Africa for undocumented migrants to leave the country. There were mass protests and, on that day alone, South African police said nearly 1000 people were arrested. Migrants were trying to flee the country, fearing violence.

We, as visitors, might not have been near protests, but the national atmosphere was certainly incendiary.

There is the Ebola virus to be considered, though its epicentre is in the Democratic Republic of Congo, and movement is being restricted.

In Kenya, leaders of the Maasai people worked with conservationists to file a lawsuit to halt the operation of a new Ritz-Carlton safari camp in a bend on the Sand River in Kenya’s Maasai Mara, claiming it impeded on an important wildlife migration corridor. Behind the lawsuit was a growing concern tourism is putting increasing pressure on wildlife and biodiversity.

The Ritz-Carlton Masai Mara Safari Camp opened in August 2025, at the height of the Great Migration, when millions of wildebeest and zebras move across the Serengeti plain from Tanzania to the Maasai Mara, following feed and water.

Marriott International said the development underwent an environmental impact assessment in full compliance with Kenya’s environmental rules.

The issue boiled for six months until, in December 2025, the Environment and Land Court at Narok dismissed the petition filed by Meitamei Olol Dapash, director of the Institute for Maasai Education, Research and Conservation.

In being aware of the ebb and flow of social and political issues in the places you plan to visit, my advice is, first, to watch these pages. A large (but invisible) part of our work maintains a behind-the-scenes network and connection to the places we write about. This is built on years of experience and having key contacts.

Then, plug yourself into the local scene. Look for local and national media, and journalists covering the whole continent, or parts of it. Perhaps start with allAfrica.com, which aggregates stories from multiple publications across the continent (look for its “All of Africa Today” headline).

Immersing yourself will undoubtedly fuel your travel experience.

Being in good hands while you are there (as with the operators above) is important.

WHEN TO GO

SOUTHERN AFRICA

Botswana

Botswana receives most of its rainfall between December and March. As the wet season ends, April and May bring fresh green landscapes, mild temperatures and bright, clear skies. From June through August, conditions become warmer and drier, making this the peak safari period, with excellent opportunities to spot wildlife.

Zambia

Most of Zambia’s safari camps reopen in early June after the rainy season and remain busy until the end of August. Rainfall is concentrated between December and March, while the dry winter months provide the best conditions for wildlife viewing and comfortable travel.

Namibia

Namibia has a dry, pleasant climate for much of the year, although April and May are particularly rewarding months to visit. As the landscape becomes increasingly arid from June to August, animals congregate around rivers and waterholes, making game viewing especially productive.

South Africa

For wildlife enthusiasts visiting Kruger National Park, the prime safari season runs from May to September, when dry conditions make animals easier to find. In contrast, the Western Cape, including Cape Town, enjoys its finest weather between November and March, with warm, sunny days and little rain.

Zimbabwe

The rainy season generally ends by April or May. June and July bring crisp, cold nights and clear daytime skies, while August and September are excellent months for safaris as wildlife gathers around shrinking water sources.

EAST AFRICA

Kenya

Many of Kenya’s best-known safari regions lie at higher elevations, giving them a cooler climate and often clear skies. The famous wildebeest and zebra migration usually reaches the Maasai Mara during July and August. By September, many herds have crossed the Mara River and spread into the northern Serengeti.

Tanzania

Stretching more than 1200km from north to south, Tanzania has a varied climate across its regions. The dry season from June to October is generally the best time to visit. June and July are particularly rewarding for seeing the wildebeest migration as the herds begin moving north across the Serengeti. The rainy season typically arrives in November and December.

Rwanda

The most popular months for mountain gorilla trekking are June to September and December to February, when conditions are generally drier, although treks operate throughout the year. Situated just south of the Equator and at high altitude, Rwanda has a tropical highland climate.

Uganda

Uganda also offers unforgettable mountain gorilla encounters, with June to September being the preferred trekking season. For traditional safari experiences, the best wildlife viewing is from June to August and again between December and February.

Ethiopia

Ethiopia’s dry season extends from October to March, with January and February among the most rewarding months to visit. Rain is most likely between March and September.

NORTH AFRICA

Egypt

I think the best time to visit Egypt is from October to April. Daytime temperatures are around 20C-25C, and evenings are cool. It’s an ideal time of year to explore ancient sites in Cairo and cruising the Nile.

Morocco

The best time to visit is in spring, from March to May, and autumn, from September to November. These are shoulder seasons, which can offer good deals, and comfortable weather.

TIPPING

Over the years, and during plenty of time travelling in Africa, I’ve happily handed over plenty of cash in tips. For me, it is one of the joys of travelling there.

On a typical two-week trip, I expect to use about $US1000 for tips.

One dollar after another. One human connection followed by the next.

Throughout southern and eastern Africa, tipping is woven into everyday relationships. Exchanging a small gratuity is often the gesture that completes an encounter.

It is an acknowledgement of the time shared between two people.

It’s not just about (or even “really about”) the money.

It is, in a way, a final seal. In many ways, the amount matters less than the act itself.

I recommend carrying as many $US1 notes as possible, though I usually find myself giving $US5 instead.

Don’t worry about being slightly “too generous”. The worst outcome is that someone has a little extra to help support their family.

If you are on a tour, don’t assume the tour operator has already taken care of tipping.

Don’t pass off the responsibility like that.

Tipping is a personal exchange between traveller and local, expressing appreciation, respect and goodwill.

Australians are known internationally as being non-tippers. And tipping is a personal choice, of course.

Choosing not to tip means local people lose a small but meaningful benefit. But I’d like to say that I think the greater loss is to the traveller. Without that final gesture, the experience feels incomplete.

This quiet exchange is a memorable moment. A brief touch of hands. A smile of understanding. The discreet passing of a folded note into someone’s hand, often without either person even glancing at it.

This simple moment creates a lasting connection that goes well beyond the value of the money.

FINAL WORDS

I have kept every notebook I have ever used as a travelling writer. There are a lot. But they are all filed and cross-referenced, so it is easy for me to go back to one of my notebooks used on an assignment in Africa, to read, and reproduce here what I wrote in that moment, on the spot…

Someone once wrote that Africa had a dark heart and the idea stuck … the phrase stuck.

But this is NOT a dark continent … Africa is a luminous continent, shining, brilliant, dazzling, filled with light. Blinding light.

And through the glare, the story of this place is so often told along its roads. Bicycles with rod brakes, hand carts with wooden wheels, a taxi-bus called City Hunters, a bus pumping out smoke.

Men in groups. A young fellow in his fancy waistcoat, older men in berets or caps or trilbies, and an old Leyland truck, open-backed and crammed with at least 60 men, dark as shadows, tearing past in a whirl of wind.

Women in groups. The young ones have babies on their backs, bound there by a single bright cloth. Some have their hair in tight plaits, corrugated over their skulls. Some have it woven into elaborate sculptures, or stiff and arranged like black meringue.

Little businesses on the side of the road. Divine Favour Hair Salon. Improved Bull Washing Bar. Dear Mama Shop.

Bras on a dusty stall.

A line of women in skirts with colourful patterns — pink cabbages on a dark grey background, scarlet oversized high heel shoes on a yellow background.

The women each carry 20 litres of water on their head in open and almost transparent buckets. I can see the water inside, and I watch the tide lines remain virtually stable.

Goodness knows how much water women carry in Africa every day.

Goodness knows how much water is carried by children in Africa every day.

Africa is complex and confronting, generous and lavish.

I love it.

I hate leaving it.

But when I leave Africa, I do not leave its brilliance behind. For I am radiant within — filled by the intensity of its landscape, the memories of its vivid people, the flashes of its wildlife.

I am filled with the intense light of the luminous continent.