Kitsch Bar Asia review: Leederville spot serving pan-Asian plates and a nutty dessert from pretty courtyard

The year was 2010. The number one song on the ARIA charts was Replay by Iyaz. In late February, after our city sweltered through one of the hottest summers on record but before the heavens opened with the infamous billion-dollar hailstorm in March, the doors swung open on a little eatery in Leederville. Kitsch, a quirky pan-Asian spot then owned and run by My Restaurant Rules winner Iain Lawless, was rapturously received and hailed as proof that Perth was finally hip. Three years after WA’s small bar laws were introduced, it was the latest in a slew of cool spots popping up, from the grungy Ezra Pound in Northbridge to the elegant Clarences in Mt Lawley. I remember Kitsch being a favourite back then, with its charming courtyard strewn with fairy lights, mismatched vibe, colourful mural and cool aesthetic. But that was BC (before children) and it’s probably been at least a decade since I last visited. Now in different hands, when we visit for a weeknight dinner, that courtyard looks a lot less ramshackle than I remember; its stools and benches have been replaced by elegant tables and chairs with the back support we all need 15 years later. I’m pleased to report that the mural and fairy light-wrapped frangipani tree are still the centrepiece and as lovely as ever. We started with the Vietnamese popcorn chicken ($28) from the Hawker Bites section of the menu. It had a great chewy yet crispy texture and the nuoc mam chua ngot was just the right sweet-sour-salty accompaniment. Cut red chilli on top gives an extra kick for those after some heat. I had high hopes for the Cambodian style grilled pork belly with smoked coconut soy, from the Street Plates section, and not just because it was $44. It was partly my fault for not investigating more fully what I was ordering, but while the grill had given the meat a wonderful smoky flavour, it was still a little too fatty for me. The small mound of house-made pickles on the side went some way to providing an acidic foil, but two of six unctuous slices went uneaten. A good pad Thai is a wonderful thing, so we ordered Kitsch’s version of the traditional chicken noodle dish ($31). It had a good balance of subtly sweet and salty flavours, with the requisite lemony tang, and some vegetables to brighten up what is a pretty brown bowl. For dessert, my companion and I opt for the peanut butter parfait with salted caramel and praline ($15), partly out of nostalgia for our favourite sweet treat from Kitsch visits of old: a chocolate sandwich with peanut brittle ice cream. I found the cold little scoops of parfait delicious; it was so peanutty, it makes me want to put a jar of PB in the freezer just to see what might happen. The crunchy praline gave it a textural edge and the toasted marshmallow was a nice touch, but could have done with a few more seconds under the blowtorch. My friend found the peanut hit too overpowering, so your enjoyment may also vary. Still, for me, it’s a sweet spot to end this little walk down memory lane. The verdict: 13.5/20 Dessert was a highlight in this cute courtyard, now with added back support. Kitsch Bar Asia 229 Oxford St, Leederville Open Tuesday-Thursday 5-10pm, Friday 5pm–late, Saturday 11.30am-3pm, 5pm-late Contact 9242 1229, kitschbar.com.au Bookings Yes