Paul Edwards: current releases under the Streicker label are full-flavoured, approachable and nuanced

Clairault Streicker winery is a stalwart in the Margaret River scene. Their current releases under the Streicker label are full-flavoured, approachable and richly nuanced. Streicker 2023 Ironstone Block, Chenin Blanc, Margaret River, $35 From the Wilyabrup vineyard, this is yet another reminder of why we should all be choosing WA chenin ahead of other, more popular, but ultimately less interesting varieties. This old vine example is full of character and zeal with its typical streamlined shape and zesty mouthfeel. Refreshing with spicy red apple, subtle florals reminiscent of geraldton wax, apple crumble, piecrust and creamy vanilla. Abundant, vineyard-derived acid drive and length of flavour, with just the right amount of winery intervention and barrel work to add some complexity and layers. 93/100 Streicker 2018 Nysa Wilyabrup, Margaret River, $120 Effectively, this a museum release from a superb vintage. The Nysa is a bold, powerful and oak-influenced blend. Unusually, for the region, the cabernet franc variety is favoured as an equal blending partner to cabernet sauvignon (52 per cent/48 per cent) yet, where “franc” can sometimes be lighter and leafier, in this case the styling is towards a creamy, dry, impressively rich style. Cedar, toast, vanilla, dried herbs and tobacco meld easily with blackcurrant, blackberry, mulberry. Plenty of bang for your buck. 93/100 Streicker 2023 Bridgeland Block Pinot Noir, Margaret River, $40 There’s not a lot of pinot noir in Margs but this cooler, southerly, Karridale site is perhaps the best place in the region to grow it. Reminiscent of some Pemberton offerings, this plush pinot has generous red fruits — strawberry jam, raspberry coulis and some cherry pip too. It’s well balanced, easy drinking and rounded off with fine dry tannins, a dusting of cocoa and a lick of cedar. Made to drink early and with gusto. 90/100